Growing Agave Attenuata in a Pot
Agaves are plants that lend themselves to be easily grown in pots and Agave attenuata is no exception. Because of it’s drought tolerance it’s a plant that won’t drop dead if you forget to water it every second day over summer. Another great thing about Agave attenuata is that it’s really easy to propagate from cuttings and the one I’m about to show you is one that I propagated from a large cutting about 18 months ago.
I’d been meaning to repot it for sometime as when I propagated it I placed the cutting in the pot to about 3/4 of the depth of the pot and I could now see the roots starting to appear at the surface of the potting mix so I knew it was starting to get a bit root bound.
The other thing I’d done was place the old black plastic pot I planted in inside a slightly larger clay pot. This is something I commonly do as black pots aren’t the most appealing pots and I don’t always like to plant straight into clay pots as they are porous and can dry out the potting mix before the plant gets the chance to take advantage of all the moisture. My theory is that because the black pot has vertical ribs on the inside it makes the roots grow straight down and stops coiling. It also has better drainage holes at the base as most clay pots only have one small hole in the bottom than can clog with roots after a while (you can drill extra holes in clay pots with a masonry drill which is something I’ve also done).
Also when you want repot your plant the plastic pot usually pulls quite easily out of the clay pot and then the plant pulls easily out of the plastic pot. Well that’s the theory anyway……………but not in this case.
So when it came time to repot my Agave attenuata I couldn’t get the plastic pot out of the clay pot. The roots had coiled so tightly inside the plastic it had expanded so much that it was jammed inside the clay pot. Now normally with most plants I would have had to break the clay pot to get it out but I decided that I was going to put this Agave attenuata to the test and see just how strong those roots were.
My solution was to pull on the short trunk as hard as I could and just pull it out (shock, horror). Now I have to say that there aren’t many plants that I’d do this to but I’d decided that the worst case scenario was that I’d just rip the roots right off the end of the trunk and I’d end up with a stem with no roots, which was pretty much exactly where I was with this plant 18 months ago when it was just a cutting.
So that’s exactly what I did. Pull on the trunk as hard I could. First though I did loosen as much potting mix as I could in an attempt to get it out of the plastic pot. This though, wasn’t going to happen as the roots had grown through the drainage holes and the only way to get it out of the plastic pot was to cut the roots off the bottom. Unfortunately though these were still inside the clay pot so they were inaccessible. So once I’d loosened as much potting mix as possible I pulled on the trunk as hard as I could and eventually with quite a bit of effort, the Agave still attached to it’s roots, plus the plastic pot, came loose from the inside of the clay pot and here’s what it looked like. A tangled mess of roots (and just after 18 months).

Now the decision I had to make was what to do next. For me this was a pretty easy decision.
If you’ve ever watched gardening programs on TV I’m sure you’ve heard the presenter tell you that when planting a plant that you should “take it out of the pot and then carefully tease the coiled roots so they’re nice and straight”.
Well I’d have to say that this is good advice as roots will continue to grow in a circle in the ground if this is what they’d been doing in the pot but I’d also say that there’s no need to be careful about it.
I treat roots like I do branches and limbs and if they need to be pruned then that’s exactly what happens, they get pruned. Now I’d have admit that this is a pretty extreme example of a plant that’s root bound but I also do this to any plant that I plant that has roots that have coiled around the inside of the pot.
Therefore the first thing I did was cut off the excess roots to get the plant out of the black plastic pot. This then exposed the extent of the roots inside the pot. As you can see it was quite root bound inside the pot as well so the next step was to cut off any coiled and crooked roots which was exactly what I did.
This then left me with a nice tidy root ball that was ready to be replanted. The other thing I did was soak the rootball in a diluted seaweed extract mixed with water for a few minutes to help it recover from “it’s surgery”.
It was then a case of either replanting it in the ground or back into the pot. I chose the later and I used the same pot the second around time around again as well. I will have to keep an eye on it though and maybe repot it in 12 months this time instead of 18.
So if you’re growing Agave attenuata in a pot don’t leave it too long to check out if it’s getting root bound and if it is, hopefully you won’t need to go to the same extent I did to remedy the problem.
Agave attenuata has a very extensive root system so I suppose at the end of the day it’s just as well, as that’s just one of the reasons why it’s such a drought tolerant plant.
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Eremophila "Big Poly"
When I first came across Eremophila Big Poly (E Bignoniiflora x E Polyclada) I thought of it more as just another addition to my collection and just grew it in a pot for about 2 years. It wasn’t until I planted it into the ground though, that it actually came into it’s own.
The first thing I noticed was it grew very quickly to about 3m tall (in about 2 years). The other thing I’ve discovered is it does respond very well to harsh pruning, so my initial conclusion about this Eremophila is that it is ideal for someone who wants to grow a quick growing, dense hedge.

Most of the flowers fell off after yesterdays thunderstorm. But it's covered in buds so it will flower up again over the next few days. Melaleuca linariifolia (dwarf) is in the foreground.
Sounds pretty good really but this Eremophila has some other great features as well. First of all it is very drought tolerant. The first two years after it was planted it grew very quickly and this was despite receiving very little rainfall and practically no extra water from me. Another feature is that you can plant it areas that suffer from inadequate drainage, as it naturally grows in areas that flood after rainfall and then dry out during summer.
Eremophila Big Poly flowers in late spring and then into summer and this year it’s putting on a spectacular flowering display as it’s the first winter it’s experienced some reasonable rainfall, which as I write this, is now continuing into spring and hopefully early summer.
The flowers are a soft creamy/purplish colour which I must admit aren’t as spectacular as some of the flowers colours of other Eremophilas but nevertheless they make a welcome contrast to some of the deep reds, purples, blues and yellows of other Eremophilas. And as I said if does get some extra rainfall it is very floriferous.

It will continue to flower for the next couple of months and then it will get it's annual prune.
So there you have it, an Eremophila that will grow quite a bit larger than most of the others. It is very drought tolerant, responds best to sunny areas, is fairly wind tolerant, will except badly draining soil (at least for short periods), grows quickly and can be hedged easily (after flowering) into a hedge or a screen.
Sounds too good to be true really as it could be a solution to lots of problem areas you have in the garden. So I suppose the next question is, what are it’s drawbacks?
Well the biggest negative about this Eremophila is that it isn’t readily available in nurseries. In fact the day I purchased it was the only time I’ve ever seen it in a nursery. As such, specialist Australian Plant Nurseries and Markets may be the only place you’ll find it, if you’re lucky.
This I think is a shame and unfortunately is the case for many other very garden worthy Eremophilas as well. I’ve often wondered though why this is the case and have come to a very obvious conclusion, but I’ve decided I will leave this for my next post, so stay tuned.
In the meantime though if anyone is interested in growing Eremophila Big Poly (or any of the other Eremophilas in my garden) and lives in Melbourne (or is willing to travel) I’m more than happy to give away cuttings and if you’re not sure how to propagate from cuttings I’ll also give you a quick lesson. Just send me an email message from my contact form if you’re interested.
So if your looking for a quick growing, drought tolerant plant you can hedge then Eremophila Big Poly may be your answer. That is of course if you can source it from somewhere.
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- Eremophila Images
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- Eremophilas
Eremophila Images
Eremophilas are a very variable genus of plants. They vary in size from prostrate ground covers to small shrubby trees, that vary in the colour of foliage from grey white to deep greens and also in flower colours which includes white, blue, purple, green, yellow, red, pink and apricot etc.
Here’s just a few of the eremophilas I have in flower at the moment in my garden. I though it might be interesting to show how if you wanted to you could nearly build a drought proof garden with just Eremophilas and never get bored.
Eremophilas are very drought tolerant and respond well to pruning after their flowering which encourages a bushier plant that produces lots of flowers the following season.

Eremophila Alternifolia x Maculata Flower

Eremophila Biserrata, makes a thick low ground cover.

Eremophila Biserrata Flowers and Foliage

Eremophila Eriocalyx Flowers

Eremophila Glabra

Eremophila Glabra Protrate Green Flowers, growing over Eremophila Biserrata

Eremophila Hillii Flowers

Eremophila Hillii in flower

Eremophila Kalbarri Carpet, low ground cover.

Eremophila Kalbarri Carpet Flowers

Eremophila Maculata Apricot Flowers

Eremophila Maculata "Aurea" flowers

Eremophila Maculata Pink, or so the label said. Eremophila Laanii might becloser to the mark though? Flowers during winter and into spring. Very floriferous.

Eremophila Maculata Red

Eremophila Maculata Red Flowers

Eremophila Maculata subsp Brevifolia is how this Eremophila was labeled but the leaves don't resemble brevifolia. This is very floriferous and has a very long flowering season from winter right though to summer.

Eremophila Maculata subsp Brevifolia flowers. This photo doesn't do justice to the colour of these flowers, as they are nearly flouresant. This plant may be called "Valentine" in the USA?

Eremophila Maculata Thundercloud Flowers

Eremophila Maculata "Winter Gold". A much better flowerer than "Aurea". It is very floriferous and these bright yellow buds remain unopened for quite a while before opening into a paler yellow flower.

Eremophila Oppositifolia flower buds

Eremophila Oppositifolia Flowers

Eremophila Racemosa Flowers start off orange and then open into a pink colour. Flowers in spring and into summer and puts on quite a display. It is quick growing but the branches are brittle but if you keep it out of strong winds you won't have a problem.

Eremophila Subtereifolia, low bushy groundcover.

Eremophila "Yanna Road" Flowers
“Australia’s Eremophilas” a Highly Recommended reference book for the Eremophila enthusiast and Home Gardener
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