phosphorus toxicity

Isopogon Formosus

Isopogon Formosus is a plant that you probably won’t find in many plant nurseries. It’s mainly restricted to Australian Native Plant nurseries probably because it can be considered in some circles to be difficult to grow. I’d successfully grown it before in my last garden so when I came across it about a year ago I thought it might be worth trying in my new garden.

Isopogon Formosus with one mature flowers and others still developing.

Isopogon Formosus with one mature flower and the others still developing.

I did have some trepidation though, as it is a member of the proteaceae family and I wasn’t sure how it was going to cope with the phosphorus in my soil. Twelve month later though it is actually surviving quite well and in fact I’d forgotten it was in my garden until it came into flower recently as this is one of the real features of this Isopogon. Despite having prickly foliage, which isn’t always everyone’s cup of tea it does blend quite well into the rest of your garden right up until it comes into flower. When this happens you really can’t help but notice the bright purple cone like flowers. They really do put on quite a show.

The Isopogon in my garden though is still only a year old so after it finishes flowering I’ll give it a light prune so that next season it will bush out and provide lots and lots of flowers.

Isopogon Formosus Flower

Isopogon Formosus Flower

The secret to growing this Isopogon is to grow it in reasonably well drained soil. It will grow quite happily in sand or gravel but if you have a clay soil just mound your garden bed or plant on a slope. A bit of moisture during the summer is also recommended but I’m sure this Isopogon only survived on rainfall last summer so I’d say that it is a reasonably drought tolerant plant. It’s also recommended not to grow it in hot humid climates but thats just a rule of thumb so if you do have this type of climate I’d say that the rewards of growing this Isopogon are certainly worth giving it a try.

So if you do happen to come across this Isopogon in a nursery I’d say give it a go, I’ve found it reasonably easy to grow. It will grow into a rounded shrub of about 1 metre if you prune it after flowering and Isopogon Formosus will reward you with lots of bright purple flowers each spring.

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Transplanting Plants

Transplanting Plants – How to do it Correctly.

A while ago I wrote an article about how I transplanted a Grevillea Caloundra Gem and despite doing nearly everything wrong, still got a successful outcome. Today though I thought it might be much better to write about transplanting plants the correct way.

Now before I start I need to say that plants such as Australian native plants and Proteas are in some circles considered to be difficult to transplant. All I have to say is this, if anyone tries to tell you this they are wrong.

I’ve always been of the opinion that anything is possible. You just have to find the right way to go about it.

Anyway todays subject is Protea cynaroides, aka the King Protea. Now this particular plant here has an interesting history. It was one of two plants propagated by my mother from two cuttings taken from a King Protea in another garden in 2001. It was my first introduction to my mothers method of propagating plants. I’d tried all sorts of elaborate methods to propagate Proteas beforehand with hardly any success at all. From two cuttings, using this method, two plants were produced. Both are still alive today, eight years later and one in the subject of this article today.

My mother had about 6 King Proteas growing in her garden she said she wouldn't miss this one.

My mother has about 6 King Proteas growing in her garden. This one wasn't in an ideal position as it's growth rate over about 7 years suggests.

So to get back on track, here’s what you need to do. Water the plant late in the day before you transplant it, with Seasol and water so it is well hydrated. Now I must confess I didn’t in this instance as it was a bit of a spur of the moment decision but the weather was cool as it was the middle of winter. So, it is best to select a day that is cool and if possible a time of the year when the plant is dormant.

Next is to select your pot/container beforehand and place some potting mix in the bottom so it’s ready for the plant before you even start to dig. Also have a bucket or watering can ready with a Seasol and water solution.

King Protea Container

This pot is selected to suit the size of the anticipated rootball. I'm hoping for a rootball around 30 cm so I've selected a 38 cm pot. It's best to select a pot size just larger than the rootball.

Another important point, is to make sure that you have a sharp spade to do the digging as you are going to have to cut through some roots. If it’s not sharp then get a file and sharpen it otherwise you may have some trouble cutting through those roots. The other thing to consider here is the size of the rootball. The more the better, but at the end of the day you are going to have to lift it into the pot so if it is too large some of the roots may break away. In this case I’ve tried to keep it to about 30 cm/12 inches in diameter.

King Protea 2

Before you start to dig just scrape the mulch away from the base of the plant and then just dig a circle around the plant with your spade, cutting through the roots as you go. Once you’ve done this you then have to level the spade into a position so as to then cut the roots underneath the plant. The King Protea didn’t have a tap root but if your plant has got one a sharp spade will really come in handy.

Once you’ve cut through all the roots it’s then into the pot. I used the spade to lift it. It’s then just a matter of filling around it with potting mix. Make sure you fill in all the gaps with the potting mix. I used a narrow stick to just push it all in.

You can see the size of the rootball.

You can see the size of the rootball. You can also see how dry the soil was. It is best to water your plant the day before.

After you’ve done this it’s just a matter of watering it in with the Seasol and water solution and this is the important bit. I really saturate the rootball in the new potting mix so that you make sure that the potting mix fills all the gaps and also to ensure all the severed roots come in contact with the Seasol. I normally use about 30 litres/7 gallons/3 watering cans of the solution and place the pot in the garden so the excess drains into garden for the other plants. In this case I placed it in the old hole as there were other plants in close vicinity just in case I cut through some of their roots as well.

Water generously

Water generously with a Seasol and water solution.

Over the next few days it’s important to keep the plant in a cool, shady area. Also make sure you keep it moist. I normally keep giving it the Seasol solution for another week and then just back off the watering to, as it needs it.

I’ve decided I’m going to grow this King Protea in a larger pot permanently because of the phosphorus toxicity in my soil. I’ll probably re pot it into a more attractive pot once the roots recover. Probably in next Autumn, in about 8 or 9 months. It’s probably also probably due for some low phosphorus Native plant fertilizer and I think that I will also start to introduce some Multicrop Plant Starter to help encourage some root growth.

Also at this stage I’m really hoping that it will flower this time next year, but we’ll wait and see about that.

My King Protea has now been recovering quite happily over the last few weeks in it's new Container.

My King Protea has now been recovering quite happily over the last 5 weeks in it's new Container.

Other things to consider when transplanting plants is that the more preparation you do beforehand the better your chances of success.

If I was transplanting a larger more established plant such as the Grevillea Caloundra Gem in my other article here’s what I might have done differently.

1. Cut a circle around the rootball with your spade, the size that you’ve decided on for your pot. Only do it so that you miss every second cut. Then water it well with a Seasol and water solution.

2. Then leave it for a month or so to recover and then cut the other areas around the roots that you missed the first time. Water it again with the Seasol and water solution.

3. Then a week before you are going to transplant it prune the plant back as hard as you can and then paint the cuts with a liquid adhesive to seal the wounds. The pruning will make it easier to lift the plant when lifting it out of the ground. This may or may not be necessary, just use your judgment here. Another reason you might want to prune your plant is if you are going to Bonsai it. In this case how much you prune it will depend on the type of plant. It may be best though to give it an intermediate prune at this time and then again after you have completed you Bonsai.

4. Instead of just placing it in it’s new hole in the ground. Plant it into a pot so that you keep it in the shade so that it doesn’t dehydrate.

5. Another important point I would like to make is to consider your soil. By this a mean heavy soils will bind together better than sandy soils. This is important when you lift the rootball out of the hole so it will stay in one piece and not have bits break away. If you have a sandy or crumbly soil though you may have a problem. If you read my other article about the Grevillea Caloundra Gem that I transplanted you will read how most of the rootball just broke away when it was lifted. You really need to avoid this and here’s how to do it. Just before the plant comes into it’s growing season sever the roots all around the plant as mentioned above and then water frequently with a Seasol and Multi Crop Plant Starter solution diluted in water. This will encourage a denser root growth within the circle you’ve severed with you spade. These roots will hopefully bind the soil together for when you lift it out of the hole. The other thing to test is if your soil binds together better when wet or dry. Test it. Remember a wet rootball will be heavier with a chance the extra weight may cause it crumble ever more. It’s just up to you to use your judgment here.

6. Finally the last point I would like to make probably goes without saying. The larger the plant you are trying to transplant the more difficult it will be. It will require more preparation and maybe even lifting equipment. So don’t bite of more than you can chew.

Some of these steps may seem like a bit of an overkill but it depends on how conservative you are or how desperate you are for the transplant to be a success. This is especially true if your plant is a favorite. If you want to experiment find a plant that is expendible and use it to hone your skills. After all if you’ve got a plant in your garden you don’t like, don’t put up with it. Dig it up, put it in a pot and give it away.

So there you have it. This is how I transplanted my King Protea. I’ll be writing another article about the King Protea soon. How to grow it and how to prune it into a nice shape. The King Proteas in my mothers garden are just coming into flower now. She’s got pink ones, a red one and a white one.

I’ve transplanted lots of plants over the years for a variety of reasons. There are lots of ways of doing it. The one thing that I would always recommend would be to use a high quality seaweed solution and make sure you don’t under use it. I use Seasol when transplanting plants but whichever one you use is up to you.

Here’s to your success!

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Grevillea “Ned Kelly”

Grevillea “Ned Kelly” (syn Masons Hybrid) is a hybrid between Grevillea banksii and Grevillea bipinnatifida. This was the plant that introduced me to Australian native plants as it was growing in my garden when we purchased that house in 1998.

Grevillea Ned Kelly

Grevillea Ned Kelly

It was just outside our dining room window and was always covered in birds feasting on the flowers. In fact this plant was so floriferous it was hard to find a time to give it an annual prune and tidy up.

Apart from the annual prune this plant required zero maintenance. It never needed to be watered and just kept on looking good year after year. For someone after a low maintenance drought tolerant garden this is a plant this is definitely a good starting point.

Grevillea Superb

Grevillea Superb

One of the other great things about this plant is that it has several other brothers and sisters that have been bred from the same parents. Grevillea “Superb”, Grevillea “Robyn Gordon”, Grevillea “Coconut Ice” and Grevillea “Peaches and Cream” are just a few. Each of these Grevilleas are as garden worthy as each other and in some respects they are such great performers that they have become quite common in Australian gardens and public landscapes. The important thing about these Grevilleas though is that they do need an annual prune to tidy them up but apart from this they will flower for most of the year and attract birds like you wouldn’t believe.

Grevillea Robyn Gordon

Grevillea Robyn Gordon

The bad news for me though is that they really don’t like phosphorus at all. The G Superb that I planted in my garden died after about a year of just barely hanging on and I’m sure that G Peaches and Cream would now also be dead if I hadn’t have treated it with Powerfeed. The Powerfeed bought it back from deaths door and despite new green growth coming back some time ago it still hasn’t flowered. I’ve now treated it with a more balanced native fertilizer so we’ll see how it goes over the next few months. Hopefully it will start to flower again soon.

Another Grevillea that I’ve also tried in my new garden is Grevillea “Strawberry Sundae”. This appears to have the same parents as the others but is more prostrate. It has reacted in the same manner as G Peaches and Cream to the phosphorus and Powerfeed, so hopefully it will flower as well soon.

Grevillea Peaches and Cream, left and Grevillea Strawberry Sundae right

Grevillea Peaches and Cream, left and Grevillea Strawberry Sundae right. Both recovering from Phosporus Toxicity.

All in all this group of Grevilleas are all very easy to grow. They are all drought tolerant plants that flower for most of the year and require little maintenance. All they need is an annual prune and make sure you keep the fertilizer away from them.

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