Transplanting Plants

Banksia Oblongifolia

Banksia Oblongifolia, native to Queensland and New South Wales, is another Banksia that isn’t often seen in cultivation and home gardens. I first came across it about 10 years ago and planted it in my mother’s garden where it grew into a narrow spindly shrub about 1.5 m tall that probably only ever had about 6 flowers on it in all its life.

A few months ago I was at was at my parent’s house and noticed they’d dug it out. My mother told me it had never really been much of a plant and only had a few branches on it. So I suppose I could understand her reasoning but I was a bit disappointed as Banksia Oblongifolia was one of the few Banksia that had a lignotuber. You see I really like plants with lignotubers as they are so easy to regenerate when they get old and spindly. All you have to do is prune them back to the lignotuber and then let them grow back again and in many cases they do look better the second time around. Therefore as I said, I was disappointed that this Banksia had been dug out.

Lucky for me though, my mother quickly advised me that she’d transplanted it into a small plastic pot and here it is……….

March 11

Doesn’t really look much does it? You can see from the photo it had about 10 original branches which were all vertical and now obviously cut off. It had one remaining juvenile branch but the lignotuber and remaining branches were all covered in buds.

Being dug up after nearly 10 years in the ground and placed in a pot hadn’t really affected it at all much. Plus, from memory, it was dug up in January or February, during summer, while it was growing. So this was a tough little Banksia indeed.

Banksia Oblongifolia Lignotuber

Banksia Oblongifolia Lignotuber. You may be able to see the new buds forming.

Therefore for the last few months it’s been growing quite happily in this pot.

Banksia Oblongifolia. April 26

By April 26 it had quite a nice canopy.

Banksia Olongifolia May 15

By May 15 it had thickened up even more.

So now I’m just waiting for it flower. Winter is it’s normal season but I don’t think there will be any flowers this winter so I’ll just have to wait till next year. So as you can see, you don’t have to dig out old Australian natives and throw them away. You can either prune them back according to how they grow or you can simply transplant them, as with this Banksia.

At the end of the day I think Banksia Oblongifolia looks ok just growing in a pot. I could either prune it back to expose the lignotuber more (like a bonsai) to make it a feature or I could just let it grow and wait for it to flower.

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Transplanting Plants

Transplanting Plants – How to do it Correctly.

A while ago I wrote an article about how I transplanted a Grevillea Caloundra Gem and despite doing nearly everything wrong, still got a successful outcome. Today though I thought it might be much better to write about transplanting plants the correct way.

Now before I start I need to say that plants such as Australian native plants and Proteas are in some circles considered to be difficult to transplant. All I have to say is this, if anyone tries to tell you this they are wrong.

I’ve always been of the opinion that anything is possible. You just have to find the right way to go about it.

Anyway todays subject is Protea cynaroides, aka the King Protea. Now this particular plant here has an interesting history. It was one of two plants propagated by my mother from two cuttings taken from a King Protea in another garden in 2001. It was my first introduction to my mothers method of propagating plants. I’d tried all sorts of elaborate methods to propagate Proteas beforehand with hardly any success at all. From two cuttings, using this method, two plants were produced. Both are still alive today, eight years later and one in the subject of this article today.

My mother had about 6 King Proteas growing in her garden she said she wouldn't miss this one.

My mother has about 6 King Proteas growing in her garden. This one wasn't in an ideal position as it's growth rate over about 7 years suggests.

So to get back on track, here’s what you need to do. Water the plant late in the day before you transplant it, with Seasol and water so it is well hydrated. Now I must confess I didn’t in this instance as it was a bit of a spur of the moment decision but the weather was cool as it was the middle of winter. So, it is best to select a day that is cool and if possible a time of the year when the plant is dormant.

Next is to select your pot/container beforehand and place some potting mix in the bottom so it’s ready for the plant before you even start to dig. Also have a bucket or watering can ready with a Seasol and water solution.

King Protea Container

This pot is selected to suit the size of the anticipated rootball. I'm hoping for a rootball around 30 cm so I've selected a 38 cm pot. It's best to select a pot size just larger than the rootball.

Another important point, is to make sure that you have a sharp spade to do the digging as you are going to have to cut through some roots. If it’s not sharp then get a file and sharpen it otherwise you may have some trouble cutting through those roots. The other thing to consider here is the size of the rootball. The more the better, but at the end of the day you are going to have to lift it into the pot so if it is too large some of the roots may break away. In this case I’ve tried to keep it to about 30 cm/12 inches in diameter.

King Protea 2

Before you start to dig just scrape the mulch away from the base of the plant and then just dig a circle around the plant with your spade, cutting through the roots as you go. Once you’ve done this you then have to level the spade into a position so as to then cut the roots underneath the plant. The King Protea didn’t have a tap root but if your plant has got one a sharp spade will really come in handy.

Once you’ve cut through all the roots it’s then into the pot. I used the spade to lift it. It’s then just a matter of filling around it with potting mix. Make sure you fill in all the gaps with the potting mix. I used a narrow stick to just push it all in.

You can see the size of the rootball.

You can see the size of the rootball. You can also see how dry the soil was. It is best to water your plant the day before.

After you’ve done this it’s just a matter of watering it in with the Seasol and water solution and this is the important bit. I really saturate the rootball in the new potting mix so that you make sure that the potting mix fills all the gaps and also to ensure all the severed roots come in contact with the Seasol. I normally use about 30 litres/7 gallons/3 watering cans of the solution and place the pot in the garden so the excess drains into garden for the other plants. In this case I placed it in the old hole as there were other plants in close vicinity just in case I cut through some of their roots as well.

Water generously

Water generously with a Seasol and water solution.

Over the next few days it’s important to keep the plant in a cool, shady area. Also make sure you keep it moist. I normally keep giving it the Seasol solution for another week and then just back off the watering to, as it needs it.

I’ve decided I’m going to grow this King Protea in a larger pot permanently because of the phosphorus toxicity in my soil. I’ll probably re pot it into a more attractive pot once the roots recover. Probably in next Autumn, in about 8 or 9 months. It’s probably also probably due for some low phosphorus Native plant fertilizer and I think that I will also start to introduce some Multicrop Plant Starter to help encourage some root growth.

Also at this stage I’m really hoping that it will flower this time next year, but we’ll wait and see about that.

My King Protea has now been recovering quite happily over the last few weeks in it's new Container.

My King Protea has now been recovering quite happily over the last 5 weeks in it's new Container.

Other things to consider when transplanting plants is that the more preparation you do beforehand the better your chances of success.

If I was transplanting a larger more established plant such as the Grevillea Caloundra Gem in my other article here’s what I might have done differently.

1. Cut a circle around the rootball with your spade, the size that you’ve decided on for your pot. Only do it so that you miss every second cut. Then water it well with a Seasol and water solution.

2. Then leave it for a month or so to recover and then cut the other areas around the roots that you missed the first time. Water it again with the Seasol and water solution.

3. Then a week before you are going to transplant it prune the plant back as hard as you can and then paint the cuts with a liquid adhesive to seal the wounds. The pruning will make it easier to lift the plant when lifting it out of the ground. This may or may not be necessary, just use your judgment here. Another reason you might want to prune your plant is if you are going to Bonsai it. In this case how much you prune it will depend on the type of plant. It may be best though to give it an intermediate prune at this time and then again after you have completed you Bonsai.

4. Instead of just placing it in it’s new hole in the ground. Plant it into a pot so that you keep it in the shade so that it doesn’t dehydrate.

5. Another important point I would like to make is to consider your soil. By this a mean heavy soils will bind together better than sandy soils. This is important when you lift the rootball out of the hole so it will stay in one piece and not have bits break away. If you have a sandy or crumbly soil though you may have a problem. If you read my other article about the Grevillea Caloundra Gem that I transplanted you will read how most of the rootball just broke away when it was lifted. You really need to avoid this and here’s how to do it. Just before the plant comes into it’s growing season sever the roots all around the plant as mentioned above and then water frequently with a Seasol and Multi Crop Plant Starter solution diluted in water. This will encourage a denser root growth within the circle you’ve severed with you spade. These roots will hopefully bind the soil together for when you lift it out of the hole. The other thing to test is if your soil binds together better when wet or dry. Test it. Remember a wet rootball will be heavier with a chance the extra weight may cause it crumble ever more. It’s just up to you to use your judgment here.

6. Finally the last point I would like to make probably goes without saying. The larger the plant you are trying to transplant the more difficult it will be. It will require more preparation and maybe even lifting equipment. So don’t bite of more than you can chew.

Some of these steps may seem like a bit of an overkill but it depends on how conservative you are or how desperate you are for the transplant to be a success. This is especially true if your plant is a favorite. If you want to experiment find a plant that is expendible and use it to hone your skills. After all if you’ve got a plant in your garden you don’t like, don’t put up with it. Dig it up, put it in a pot and give it away.

So there you have it. This is how I transplanted my King Protea. I’ll be writing another article about the King Protea soon. How to grow it and how to prune it into a nice shape. The King Proteas in my mothers garden are just coming into flower now. She’s got pink ones, a red one and a white one.

I’ve transplanted lots of plants over the years for a variety of reasons. There are lots of ways of doing it. The one thing that I would always recommend would be to use a high quality seaweed solution and make sure you don’t under use it. I use Seasol when transplanting plants but whichever one you use is up to you.

Here’s to your success!

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Eucalyptus caesia "Silver Princess"

Eucalyptus caesia “Silver Princess” is a small Eucalypt that can grow to only 5m which makes it ideal for smaller gardens. It has a very ornamental weeping habit and a silvery, white powdery substance that covers the branches and adds to it’s appeal. Red flowers appear during winter and although they are not as prolific as some Eucalypts they still very much add to the appeal of this tree.

Eucalyptus caesia "Silver Princess"

Eucalyptus caesia "Silver Princess"

My mother had this plant growing in her garden but decided she didn’t like it so I dug it up and transplanted it into my new garden. It’s appearance is probably not for everyone though as it can look quite sparse. Its older limbs have rough cracking bark and it does have a habit of growing as if it is about to fall over. Then again, for me these are features and I tend to think that as far as Eucalypts go this one is very much an individual. You do see enough of them though growing in peoples gardens to realize that it is quite popular.

As far as the unusual growth habit goes this can be fixed by staking the plant in an effort to try and get it to grow a bit straighter. I’m not a big fan of staking plants though unless they really need to and should only be done as a temporary solution.

Another method that may be better would be to prune it into shape. I actually saw a Silver Princess growing in a country garden once that had been coppiced. It actually looked amazing as there was a spray of branches that emerged from the base of the plant and went in every direction from horizontal to vertical.

It must have been about 3m in diameter and was quite a specimen. I drove past there a few years later though and it was gone. It was disappointing as looking back now I wished I’d gotten a photo.

The important thing here is if you do have a plant that you’re not happy with you do have options as this plant does have a lignotuber and does respond very well to pruning.

The Silver Princess is also very adaptable to most soil conditions as long as the soil is reasonably well drained and is quite often seen growing in streetscapes and public gardens. It can be grown as a feature and also looks good grown amongst smaller plants as the long arching branches look great rising above the rest of the garden plants.

Eucalyptus Caesia “Silver Princess” Images.

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